Dutch Rye Whisky | 50% ABV
Score: 7/10
Very Good Indeed.
TL;DR
Mint almond goodness in this high-quality rye
The underrepresented palate cleanser that malt lovers need
The main way most of us come across rye in whisky is in unmalted form as part of a mashbill, usually for bourbon, or American rye whiskey.
These typically contain a high fraction of corn in the mashbill (mostly corn for bourbon) and some malted barley to supply the enzymes for conversion of starch to sugar. The second most common way, at least for us Canadians, is in a blended whisky where (usually) light corn whisky is blended with rye “flavouring” whisky to make the traditional Canadian blended style, colloquially known as rye (flavoured).
There are examples of 100% rye whisky out there but they are not the norm. 100% ryes are also usually column distilled, bottled young, and almost exclusively matured in new charred oak. Why hasn’t rye been given the attention it deserves?
I remember when rye had a bit of a boom about a decade ago. Back then there weren’t many distilleries focussing on rye. Most of the output came from Alberta Distillers in Calgary, shipped out and rebranded to fulfil demand south of the border. The other option was the infamous 95/5 recipe from MGP. If it was 100% rye it was probably Alberta, 95% rye it was probably MGP. In today’s climate of smaller craft distilleries, we have more variety but still not many places to look for a pot stilled rye at a decent age in something other than new charred oak.
New Riff distillery produces a spirit made from 100% malted rye, but it’s given the Kentucky treatment: column stilled and new charred oak barrels. Although this produces a unique liquid that, in my opinion, can be enjoyed by both die hard bourbon and scotch lovers, it leans to the style of the former. More typical Canadian style 100% rye offerings, such as those produced by Alberta Distillers (for example, Whistle Pig), are geared more towards rye fans who want those classic rye whisky flavours hooked straight into their veins. Menthol, dill, and caraway, this style is unmalted rye grain distilled with the intent for use as a flavouring whisky in blends.
Hiram Walker’s Lot No. 40 goes the cask finish route with some of the more recent “rye explorations” releases. Column then pot stilled and finished in atypical wood, these are among the more adventurous ryes out there – perhaps closest to something enthusiasts would like to see. It’s still a bit like putting lipstick on a pig (albeit a very tasty pig) with limited innovation on the front end processes to differentiate an otherwise factory production spirit.
Rye whisky is flavourful in a completely different way to malt, and I’d like to argue it is the perfect compliment. Under the right circumstances there is much complexity and elegance to be found. Aside from the usual notes associated with this type of whisky, one can also perceive bright floral notes, fruit candies and sweet caramelised sugar tones, as well as some interesting spices not typically found in barley malt whisky, like Chinese five spice.
The devil’s grain isn’t for everyone. Similar to my brother-in-law’s nephew only eating macaroni and cheese, sticking to what you know can be comforting. But I would argue that every once in a while it’s good to switch things up, if only to give yourself a different perspective on what you already know.
If Ardnamurchan is the fish course and Benromach is the meat, rye whisky is the mint sorbet palate cleanser. Try sipping a quality rye between whisky courses and you’ll see what I mean.
Review
Millstone 100 Rye, Dutch Single Rye Whisky, 50% ABV
£96 generally available (£60 paid in Canada)
Here’s a new (to me) rye that I’m very glad to be able to taste. A bottle split between Broddy, our resident Millstone fan, and me, our self-proclaimed resident rye fan. I won’t talk about how jealous I am of his recent meetup with Earie to tour the distillery that is otherwise closed to visitors.
This rye has some good specs, clearly listed on the label. We can see why it’s called “100 Rye”: 100% rye grain, 100% pot stilled, 100 months old (8 years), and many other 100s, including 100% milled by Dutch windmills.
Nose
Lots of cool mint on the nose – spearmint? Evergreen. Vanilla, brown butter and caramelised sugars. Apple strudel, tarte au sucre. Nice Christmas-y spices – ginger, cloves, and nutmeg. Slight beeswax.
Palate
Sweet and savoury we have some greasy 5 cent candies from the corner store; Swedish berries, big foot candy, cherry blasters. Almond extract. Oily liquorice comes through – breakfast sausages with anise? Vanilla and well measured oak bring us back to earth. A bit of a cooling sensation as it spreads through the mouth.
The Dregs
This is a very pleasing whisky with a lot going on. My first couple sniffs were all about the mint, subsequent sessions revealing more rounded aspects, baked goods and spices. In the mouth it was all about the candy until I noted the almond extract and couldn’t untaste it. Amaretto vibes. The price is great considering the quality of this whisky and it is definitely recommended.
While my search for interesting ryes to explore will continue, this is a good place to stop off for a while and admire what a 100% pot stilled rye can do. The difference here from the typical Canadian or American styles is a roundedness and lack of sharper or perhaps harsher tones that might be a barrier for malt lovers. I’ll continue to look for longer aged rye whiskies, or those in used casks – let me know in the comments if you have any suggestions.
Score: 7/10
